the passionate life of rick gresh


Blog

A Rare Vintage Affair

 On March 10, 2010 my good friend Rodrick Markus & I have teamed up to create an exciting event.  This is the first time I’ve ever offered a complete tasting of the David Burkes Primehouse Dry Aged Steaks ranging from 28 days up to 75 days.  If you dont know Rod, you deffinately need to come meet him because he is the guru of all things tea, his collection of rare teas is the best in the country!  Cave aged pu-erh teas are absoutly amazing, there are so many great teas to enjoy and currently we are putting the fininshing touches on the tea cocktails and wines for the evening.  The menu is listed below, it is all inclusive for 79 dollars, please call 312-660-6000 to make your reservation, remember space is limited.  http://chicago.metromix.com/restaurants/article/tea-it-up/1796655/content

A Rare Vintage Affair

Wagyu Nibbles

Tartar With Freeze Dried Grape Caponatta

Emperors Lotus Blossom Leaves Crusted Braised Shortrib

Ninja Sausage Dumplings with Pineapple Shoyu

 

Dinner

Wet Aged Ribeye Versus 28 Day Dry Aged Ribeye

 stewed green lentils with wild osmanthus petal & almond chutney

Emperor’s 2008 Oak Barrel Aged Keemun
 

40 Day Sirloin

emperor’s houjicha pickled carrots & buckwheat custard

2001 Vintage Pu-erh Wild Rose
 

Slow Roasted 55 Day Dry Aged Prime Rib In Fresh Green Kukicha

smoked potato dumplings, swiss chard crema

1978 Vintage Cave Aged Pu-erh

     

75 Day Ribeye

spicy crab with sicilian blood orange pu-erh sauce maltaise

1983 Vintage Private Reserve Masterpiece Pu-erh

 

Fields Of France Rooibos Biscuit

soft fleur de sel caramel, roasted mexican vanilla ice cream, brown butter sautéed mango,

wild osmanthus hedonistic orange blossom

Emperor’s Late Night Elixir

    

Executive Chef: Rick Gresh

Executive Pastry Chef: Jove T. Hubbard

Master Of Tea: Rodrick J. Markus

Sommelier: Rachael Johnson Hussar

WGN Cooking Demo

 Today I cooked a great winter dish on WGN news, its really simple and somthing I’ve been making for years.  When I was at Green Dolphin Street we could hardly keep up with production.  I’ve adapted the recipe a bit so its easy to make at home, you can always substitiute a beef roast or lamb leg if you dont eat pork.  Enjoy!

 http://www.wgntv.com/videobeta/?watchId=ddadfc1a-bf8e-4711-85c3-3b265e673c15

Slow Roasted Pork Shoulder with “Mole Broth” & Tortilla Flan

 5 #                  Bone in pork shoulder

1 ea                onion, chopped

4 ea                garlic cloves

2 ea                ancho peppers, soaked for 30 min in warm water, stemmed and seeded

1 tbsp            black peppercorns

½ ea               vanilla bean, split and scraped

4 sprigs          thyme

4 sprigs          marjoram

1 ea                carrot, chopped

1 ea                Celery stalk, chopped

3 qts               Chicken Stock

¼ bunch       cilantro, chopped

½ cup            almonds

To taste        salt and pepper

Method:

  1. In a blender combine onion, garlic,  drained ancho peppers, black peppercorns, carrot, celery and blend together using the stock to help blend this smooth.
  2. Season pork with salt and pepper, in a hot pan over high heat sear the meat until deep golden brown.  Remove and turn flame down to medium heat.
  3. Add blended liquid and remaining stock, vanilla bean to the searing pan, bring to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer for 30 minutes.  Add herbs and seared pork, cover and place in a 325°F oven for 3 hours.
  4. Add the almonds and cilantro and return to the oven for approx 1 more hour.  Pork should be tender.  Remove from pan, reduce sauce if necessary, adjust seasoning, strain and serve over the pork.

Tortilla Flan

1 bag             corn tortilla chips, plain

3 ea                poblano peppers, charred over an open flame

10 oz              tomatillos

2 ea                garlic cloves

1 bunch        cilantro

4 ea                eggs

1 qt                heavy cream

2 cups            mild cheddar cheese shredded

To taste        salt and pepper

As needed   vegetable spray

Method:

  1. In a blender puree peppers, tomatillos, garlic cloves, cilantro, eggs and cream until smooth.  Season. 
  2. Pour over chips and mix together well. 
  3. In an oven proof pan, spray with vegetable spray.  Add layers of chips and cheese until pan is full.  This mixture should be wet, pour over additional cream mixture to ensure.  Set aside covered for 40 minutes at room temperature.
  4. After 40 minutes check to see if the mixture is too dry, add additional cream mixture as necessary.  Cover and bake in a 325°F for approx 30 minutes until set.

Brunch In A Box

I just launched my Brunch in a Box concept at David Burkes Primehouse, the follow up to American Dim Sum Brunch.  Every week I offer a menu of collections in a bento box, for example the hangover box which contains mini burgers with french fries, mac n cheese with crispy bacon and a monte cristo made with house cured proscuitto & rockstar sunglasses!    Yep the perfect cure for the hangover, some weeks I think I should just call this breakfast haha!  I love to try many different things in a meal so this a fun way to taste the menu and enjoy multiple flavors.  If you are truly a dare devil, try the mystery box, this is where we really get to have fun as chefs!  Don’t let the steakhouse fool you, we are always cooking something cool in the kitchen!  Here is a copy of the Brunch in a Box menu. 

Brunch Boxes

Griddled                                                 15

Cinnamon raisin french toast…maple syrup

Buttermilk pancakes…blueberries

Crepe…stewed fruit

Breakfast Sausage

 

Eggs                                                        17

Benedict…spicy ham, hollandaise

Lobster Scrambled…crème fraiche, caviar

Peppers & Eggs… kobe paprika sausage, brioche

Bacon Biscuit

 

Little Bull                                                21                                                       

207L Beef Tips…arugula, blue cheese, tomato vinaigrette

Grilled Steak…mushrooms, onions & whipped potato

Shortrib Dumplings…horseradish, cheddar cheese, bbq sauce

Tempura Green Beans

 

Big Bull                                                   42

Petite Filet…garlic spinach

Petite Kansas City Sirloin… asparagus

Delmonico…basil whipped potatoes

Petite Mixed Green

 

Hangover                                                16

Mini Burkers….spicy mayo, french fries

Mac N’ Cheese…chopped bacon

Monte Cristo…proscuitto, gruyere, tomato tapanade

 

Shells                                                      21

Pretzel Crusted Crabcake…poppy seed honey

Angry Shrimp…basil, lemon, chili

Scallops…lobster fried rice, miso glaze

Oysters

 

Mystery Box                                          priced daily

let go & let Chef Rick treat you to a culinary surprise

Pop Up Vegan Tasting

The email came through that guests of theJames hotel needed a vegan tasting menu, excellent!  Its not often we get requests for vegan cuisine afterall we are Chicago’s premier steakhouse!  This day took me back in time when I was just a line cook working at Trio in Evanston for Chef Shawn McClain, I was on entremetier (veg station).  We had tons of food requests, special diets and overall a passion and audiance to create great cuisine highlighting vegetables.

 I started out with some simple nibbles in the lounge, grilled eggplant arancinis that we placed on a bed of crushed nicoise olives with roasted garlic and fresh oregano.  Three sisters farm grit cakes topped with smoked mushrooms and sweet and sour peppers.  The last nibble was truffle root vegetable crostinis.  Look at that knife work, my Sous Chef Nolan clearly passed skills class!

We had to play with our new kitchen toy, seeing the look on my Sous Chef Dino’s face when he plays with the cryovac machine is priceless, he’s happy Dino!  We made compressed watermelon carpaccio topped with marinated kumatos, watermelon radish, slivered onion rings, cucumbers, fried capers, fried ginger and mint.

We had some beautiful local baby carrots, I cooked each seperately golden with garlic, orange with ginger and purple with chilies.  They were cut into small rounds and tossed with dried baguette and the remaing cooking liquids and parsley to make a panzanella.  This was wrapped in basic eggless pasta dough and baked.  Garnished with olive oil poached fennel and a pesto of arugula and hazelnuts.

At this point in the evening the rest of the guests at the table were eating steaks and drinking bigger red wines, so I took a simple and beautiful approach to match. Grilled king trumpet mushrooms, asparagus and watercress emulsion, corn shoots and (below) caramalized caulifower and olive oil crushed yukon gold potato gratin with fresh thyme.

Dessert, I didnt get to take a picture but it looked and tasted amazing.  John a.k.a. PC1 and Amanda made a heirloom apple crisp with organic oat struesal and orange sorbet.  A fun day of cooking during a classic Chicago winter blizzard!

Getting Ready For South Beach Food & Wine

I’m excited, plain and simple!  I can’t wait to go to SOBE Food & Wine!  I cooked at Aspen Food and Wine last year and it was a blast!  I know that Miami will only be better, theres so much more to do.

One of the dishes I will be making is a 14 day dry aged duck breast with foie gras dumplings and mango chutney.  The key to this dish is having a dry aging room, lucky for me I have one at David Burkes Primehouse.  It all starts with making a brine of 5 parts soy, 3 parts water, 2 parts honey, ginger, lemongrass, star anise and chilies all boiled together for 30 minutes and then chilled completely.  Next I trim up any excess fat on the ducks, prick the skin all over and submerge them in the chilled soy brine for 30 min.  After that its into the drying room, this happens approximately every 12 hours (twice a day).  After 14 days the ducks are ready to be roasted.  I can’t wait, they are so tasty, you just cant stop eating it.  If you are in SOBE stop by the Best of the Best Event and try a plate, or two.

History Repeats Itself

  I started 2010 by looking back in history, when it comes to food there is something to be said for “grandmas cooking”.  For such a long time the culinary world shunned the thought of cooking food simply and set its sights on a higher caliber of product.   I know my grandmother didn’t have the time to refine her skills in the kitchen to the point of 4 star perfection; she had to get food on the table.  She couldn’t contemplate if she used a different olive oil how that slight change would affect the dish. 

 I think sometimes we take ourselves a bit too serious in the food world, yes both chefs and guests alike, chasing the perfect bite of flavor.  I’ve actually witnessed guests at a recent wine dinner I attended put every dish under the microscope and pick it apart around the table so much that they forced themselves not to have a good meal.  This is an actual quote from the evening “Yes this bass is exceptional, but in a dream world I would want more flavor from the fish, I think poaching the fish and then searing the skin crispy would have made the dish perfect”.  In a dream world?  Sorry I’m back here on planet reality, now chefs have to compete with a dream world?  You go and poach your fish first then sear it crispy, let me know how that works out for you!  How about the real issue was that the fish was farm raised and lacked the true flavor of wild line caught striped bass?     

 I meet young culinary students all the time, fascinated by the culinary world, eager to rise through the ranks like a rocket.  The important thing is that no matter what your title or experience, you have to keep learning.  I remember some of my early days in the kitchen working on a project and the chef would come over and show me another technique or recipe, wow I still use it today!  In our own kitchen family kind of way we produce heritage recipes, one that is passed on from one to another over time. 

 Now that I’m looking back at old family recipes I realized that I’ve never once in my life used a pressure cooker.  In the kitchen we always had the time to braise things for hours, we planned ahead for it.  Plus who are you feeding in a 6 quart pressure cooker?  We would need a 30 gallon pressure cooker at the hotel!  So I purchased a home model and went at it, not having a clue as to how to cook with one of these.  I read the book that came with it, clearly written in 1950 so I didn’t quite understand everything, but I’m a chef I’ll figure it out.  I put some pork spare ribs in with onion, water, smoked and dried green chilies from the garden, homemade canned bbq sauce, sugar, salt and pepper.  Put the lid on and then put it over a high flame until the pressure built up and the release cap was rocking back and forth.  Turned the flame down so the cap would just rock back and forth for 15 minutes and then it was done.  I let it cool at room temperature for approximately 45 minutes, opened it up and in front of my eyes in the pot was the most tender pork spare ribs I’ve had in such a long time.   I turned the broiler on and while waiting I ate a 5 bone rack, they were so delicious.  Once the broiler was hot enough I charred up the outside, glazed them with bbq sauce and sat down for a feast, just like grandma used to make (well a few improvements, grandma didn’t have smoked dried green chilies from the garden or homemade bbq sauce).

Michigan Farm, Beer & Cheese Trip

Back in October 2009 I took my crew on a trip to vist local sustainable farms, brewery and cheesemaking operation.  This video is a snapshot of our weekend and we had such a great time!  I have more trips planned for my staff this summer, its great to get out and see where your food really comes from.  Thanks Michael Mason for putting this video together.

Lobster & Avocado Salad for Valentines Day

 

I put together a 3 part short cooking demonstration filmed in my home kitchen along with the recipes for a simple elegant meal that you can make in your own home.  I have to thank Michael Mason for shooting on his high def camera and editing the material.  This was a fun project and I hope you enjoy the video and the recipes.  Now watch the video, print off the recipes, go shopping and cook like a pro chef in your own kitchen on Valentines Day!

Lobster & Avocado Salad…tipsy tomato sauce

Tipsy Tomato Sauce

2 ea                tomatoes, medium sized, rough chopped

2 tsp               tomato paste

1 oz                vodka

2 tsp               horseradish, prepared

1 tsp               kosher salt

¼ tsp              cracked pepper

10 drops        tabasco or your favorite hot sauce

1/3 cup         extra virgin olive oil

Lobsters

2 ea                lobsters, 1# each

2-3 tbsp         mayonnaise

½ tsp              basil chopped fine

1 tsp               lemon juice

To taste         kosher salt and pepper

 

Avocado Mixture

1 ea                avocado, ripe but not mushy, rough chopped

2 ea                scallions, sliced thin

1 ea                jalapeño, seeded, finely chopped

2 tsp               cilantro, chopped (optional)

½ ea               lime juiced

2 tsp               extra virgin olive oil

1 ea                tomato, small, peeled, seeded and small diced

to taste          kosher salt and pepper

Garnish

1 cup             mesclun greens

3 tbsp             extra virgin olive oil

1 tbsp             lemon juice

Method:

  1. The first 7 steps can be made the day before.
  2. In a blender combine all ingredients for the tipsy tomato sauce except the oil.  Puree until smooth, while running on medium speed slowly incorporate oil.  Adjust seasoning if necessary and place in refrigerator for later use.
  3. In a pot large enough to hold the lobsters bring salted water up to a simmer.  Remove claws and tail by twisting, if you are squeamish you can kill the lobster by inserting a knife into its head.  Push a bamboo skewer into the tail to keep it straight when cooking.  You can save the lobster bodies for stock or soup, freezing for a later date is good, just wrap them well in plastic wrap or a freezer bag.
  4. Place claws in simmering water and cook for 6-7 minutes, and tails for 3-5 minutes.  Remove and immediately plunge into ice cold water.
  5. Once chilled remove meat from tails and claws, again save the shells for use in another recipe. Cut tail meat into chucks and leave the knuckles and claws whole.  Set aside in refrigerator.
  6. Combine mayonnaise, basil and lemon juice, set aside in refrigerator.
  7. Combine the extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice listed in the garnish section, set aside in the refrigerator.
  8. In a bowl combine all the ingredients for the avocado mixture.  Set aside in the refrigerator for up to 4 hours, make sure to press plastic wrap onto the surface to prevent discoloring.

To assemble:

  1. Toss lobster in mayonnaise.
  2. Toss mesclun greens in lemon vinaigrette.
  3. On a plate spoon a small amount of avocado mixture down in the center of the plate.
  4. Place greens off to one side.
  5. Place lobster mix falling off the mixed greens.
  6. Drizzle the salad with the tomato vinaigrette.

Spice Roasted Lamb, Dried Fruits & Fennel Tart Tatin for Valentines Day

 

This is part 2 of a short cooking demonstration filmed in my home kitchen along with the recipes for a simple elegant meal.   Now watch the video, print off the recipes, go shopping and be a star in your own kitchen on Valentines Day!

Spice Roasted Lamb…dried fruits & fennel tart tatin

Dried fruits

2 tbsp             butter

3 ea                garlic cloves, sliced thin

1 slice             white bread, crust removed, small diced

1 tsp               sugar, granulated

¼ cup            raisins golden, soaked in ¼ cup warm water to plump

3 ea                dried apricots, sliced

¼ cup            almonds, sliced, chopped

1 tbsp             sherry vinegar

1 tbsp             extra virgin olive oil

3 ea                anchovy fillets (optional)

2 tsp               basil, chopped

Tart Tatin

1 sheet           puff pastry

2 ea                fennel bulbs, medium size, cut into ½ inch thick lengthwise slices

2 ea                oranges,1/2 of one zested, both juiced

2 tbsp             honey

½ tsp              fennel seeds, ground

5 tbsp             butter, cubed

to taste          kosher salt and pepper

Lamb & Spice Mixture

2 pcs              lamb loin, boneless, silver skin removed

As needed   vegetable oil for cooking

To taste         Kosher Salt

½ tsp              ground cumin

½ tsp              black pepper

pinch             cayenne pepper

½ tsp              fennel seeds, ground

¼ tsp              cinnamon

As needed   extra virgin olive oil

Method for Fruit:

  1. In a sauté pan over medium heat melt the butter, add the garlic and cook until lightly browned.   Remove garlic and set aside.
  2. Add bread cubes and toast until lightly brown, remove and set aside.
  3. Add dried fruits with plumping liquid, sugar & vinegar and cook until almost dry.
  4. Remove from heat, add to breadcrumbs and garlic, add olive oil, anchovies and basil.  Adjust seasoning, leave covered at room temperature for up to 2 hours.

Method for Tart:

  1. In a nonstick oven proof pan or a smaller cast iron pan combine orange juice, zest, honey, ground fennel, butter, salt and pepper.  Bring to a boil for 1 – 2 minutes, swirl pan to combine.
  2. Remove from heat and arrange fennel in a star pattern.  Simmer for over low heat for approx 40 minutes adding a little water as necessary to prevent the mixture form burning.  Then fennel should be tender and nicely glazed , make special note not to move the fennel around too much, the star shape will be presented later.  Remove from heat and cool completely.
  3. Once cool cut a round of the puff pastry to fit over the fennel, place on top and use a ring mold to prevent the rise/shrinking of the dough in the oven.  If you do not have a ring mold use a ring of aluminum foil.  Keep in refrigerator until ready to bakes.

Method for lamb:

  1. Combine all spices together.  Season lamb with spice mixture and salt when ready to start cooking.

Cooking & Assembly

  1. Preheat oven to 400°F degrees and bake tart for approx 10 minutes, drop oven temp to 325°F for approx 20 minutes.
  2. In a hot pan over high heat sear lamb on all sides until deep golden brown.  Approx 3 minutes per side. Place in oven for 5 minutes.  Remove from oven and lest rest in a warm place.
  3. Place tart over burner on low heat to warm the syrup,  Remove from heat, invert a plate or cutting board onto the top of the pan and carefully flip over using towels and being very careful.   Garnish with some fresh cracked pepper and fennel fronds.
  4. Slice lamb into medallions, season meat.  Place on plate and garnish with fruit topping and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

Chocolate Creme Pot for Valentines Day

Part 3 of my short cooking demonstration filmed in my home kitchen along with the recipes for a simple elegant meal.    Now watch the video, print off the recipes, go shopping and cook a great meal in your own kitchen on Valentines Day!

Chocolate Creme Pots…caramilized oranges & madeleines

7 oz                bittersweet chocolate

1 ¾ cups       heavy cream

3 tbsp             butter

Method:

  1. Bring the cream up to a boil.
  2. Melt chocolate and butter together over a double boiler, whisk thoroughly with a whisk.  Whisk cream into this mixture.
  3. Pour mixture into ramekins or desired dish, refrigerate until ready to serve.

Garnish

4 pcs              Madeleine (available at most coffee shops)

1 ea                Orange, cut into segments

3 tbsp             Sugar

As needed   your favorite coffee or espresso drink

As needed   powdered sugar, optional

Method

  1. Remove chocolate cream pot form refrigerator.
  2. On a oven proof pan lay out orange segments, sprinkle with sugar.  Using a blowtorch caramelize the sugar.  If you do not have a blowtorch using you r broiler set on high caramelize the oranges under the broiler.
  3. Be very careful removing the oranges place on top of the chocolate, garnish with a dusting of powder sugar.  Serve with madeleine’s on the side and your favorite coffee drink.