the passionate life of rick gresh

Cuisine

I’m Moving!!

Hey everyone, I just launched my new website www.rickgresh.com

Please check it out, I’ll be posting my blog on www.rickgresh.com moving forward.  Don’t forget to sign up for my email list! Thanks for all the support.

 

rg


I’ve been ignoring the blog

So this past summer I decided to have what was coined by a friend of mine the “summer of Gresh”.  That meant I would relax and enjoy the great city of Chicago.  I felt like I was always working, my days off usually are spent getting ready for the week, a few hours of catching up on emails and organizing what feels like 5000 meetings.  Well I decided enough of that, its time for me to enjoy those days off.   I’ve had a great summer, I even finished Betty my vintage Harley. So instead of me typing all about one topic I decided to just give a few quick images and call it a day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Jeans & Tacos

I can not deny my love for denim, I wear jeans pretty much daily.  Most nights out you will see me sporting jeans instead of dress slacks, its just my comfy ways.  I also spend a lot of my off time having tequila, margaritas and Latin food.  So when the Gap company approached me about creating a taco menu for their Pico de Gap taco Truck of course I said yes.  This was a fun project, creating the tacos menu and then attending the street festivals where the truck was serving the food.  I dont usually get out to the festivals seeing how I have this little restaurant/hotel to run and I need to be here.  Its really nice seeing the people of Chicago out, having a taco and enjoying them.

 

pico-de-gap

The menu:

Dry Aged Steak Taco with caramelized onions and tomatillo jalapeno jam

Chicken Chorizo Taco with charred poblano, potatoes, queso fresco, cilantro

Farmers Market Queso Fundido Taco with whole wheat tortilla, arugula salsa verde, truffle smoked tomatoes, goat cheese and smashed pinto beans

Pork Belly Taco with preserved cabbage and fermented black beans

Make sure you grab a taco, only $1.69 a piece.  If  you bring your receipt from a gap purchase that day the tacos are free!  Go shopping, grab some new jeans and eat a few tacos!

 


The Beginning Of A Simple But Special Meal

So I’m making dinner for some friends tomorrow after a round of golf, I needed something I can have ready, be full of flavor and will not make me stand over the grill or in the kitchen all night.  I get great Berkshire hogs from Faith’s Farm to use at the resto and what better than a bone in shoulder.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I started by scoring the fatty side about 1/2 inch deep 3/4 inch apart and then cold smoking it using apple wood chips for 5 hours, then I made a wet rub of the following ingredients:

8 cloves of garlic

2 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled, grated fine.

1 tbsp red chili flakes

2 tsp ground mustard

2 tsp hot paprika

3 tbsp leather wood honey

1 tbsp salt

2 tsp marjoram

2 tbsp low salt soy sauce

2 tbsp olive oil

Grind the following spices to a powder and add to above:

1 bay leaf, 2 pcs of broken star anise, 6 cloves, 2 tbsp black peppercorns, 1 tbsp coriander seed, 1/2 cinnamon stick

Mix everything together and after the smoking rub half of it into the meat on the scored side.  Place in an oven at 450 degrees Fahrenheit for 45 min to brown.

 

Flip over and spread the rest of the rub onto the bare side and roast for 20 minutes longer.  turn oven down to 250 degrees Fahrenheit, add 2 cups of water  and cover.  Slow roast for 16-24 hours.  Before serving flip over and turn the oven back up to 400 degrees and crisp up the top, just make sure you do not burn it.

This is going to be served with some poblano pepper and tortilla casserole, minted cabbage slaw and grilled green onions and vinegary bell pepper relish.  My house smells amazing right now and I cant wait to dig in!

 


So I’ve been busy, give me a break already!

So let me start this post with an apology, I’ve been a tad bit busy and typing up my life has not ranked high on the priority list.  I’m sorry for ignoring all of you, so what have I been up to the last few months?  lets see….

BETTY -

No I wont show her yet.  No woman wants to be seen before she is completely ready and I’m not going to do that to my girl.  Betty is my motorcycle I decided to build from scratch.  Yes from scratch, I didn’t buy a built engine like you see on tv and put it in the frame etc…  I rebuilt the engine piece by piece, hunting for the parts to get just what I needed.  Nothing was a kit, it was hand fabrication and lots of hours of making her mine!   No rules besides what the state of Illinois says of course to make her legal, I just built what I thought fit my personality.  So many people have asked me why a harley (can you see me in a sport bike?) like really I give off a sport bike vibe?  I need to change that immediately, I know if you are on two wheels its already cool but me on a crotch rocket?  ehhhh not so likely.  I like vintage, I love everything old school.  Give me a rat rod and some doo wop and you will see the inner greaser in me smile from ear to ear.  I love that style, I love that era.  I love all things vintage, if only the perfect “pin up” girl was out there!  ahhh a boy can dream right?  So for me to have a 32 year old engine and a 39 year old frame plus some newer parts mixed in just makes me happy on the inside.  You may have your cruise control, power steering blue tooth enabled whatever, but I have vintage, and in my head I have just a bit of extra cool!  hehe.  Hey I can always build another one, havent you figured that out yet?  Why build just one?

THE KICKER -

I had to get my motorcycle license.  Yes I didnt know how to officially ride, but i knew I would love it.  Build first, ride later.  Same thing applied to my hockey career, i told my mom in 2nd grade “I want to play ice hocke”y, she replied “you have never been ice skating”.  Ehh details, I played hockey!  Let me tell you that I’m so happy with my class and my instructor Kathy!  She was awesome and really taught me how to be a good biker not some db that we all know we have seen.  I recommended everyone taking a class from www.lrn2ryd.com.  Both Larry and Kathy made learning to ride the bike very easy and a ton of fun, thanks you two!

THE GARDEN –

400 seedlings to get my garden going this year.  plus there is that whole yard clean up and getting everything ready for summer enjoyment.  Don’t worry its all planted, looking great and Im excited to have some fantastic crops!  this year Im  clipping my bush berry plants and making them root to expand my stock of berries, approx 90 Feet of mixed raspberries, blueberries and blackberries!  I moved my strawberries to a better spot and gave them a proper netting cover to keep the birds, rabbits etc out of them!

WORK -

Oh right I still have that little hotel and restaurant to run!  Everything is great and I’m  looking forward to a great summer.  Speaking of a great summer, I plan on really enjoying my summer.  I read the handbook and it had this whole paragraph on “work/life balance” :) seems to be a life balance moment for me!  As one of my friends has dubbed this the “Summer of Gresh”, please say hello if you see me out!

CITRINE BOMBSHELL -

Brewed that little number with Goose Island, so delicious!  Not going to lie, brewed a homebrew batch afterwards.  Hey a boy has to keep some goodness around when all of you drink it up!  Thanks for loving it!

WEIGHT LOSS CHALLENGE -

Myself and Roger Herring both decided to “clean up our acts” and loose the weight.  it was a simple challenge, who can lose the most weight in 6 weeks.  Well I’m happy to say I’ve lost 23 pounds and still going strong.  For those of you who don’t know this chef lifestyle I eat and drink better the anyone else out there.  It just adds up, there is always an event to be at or an after party etc.  I’m a new man, a new discipline, a new world!  Its not over, I’m dropping more weight and I’m not happy until I reach my goal!  I’m going to keep using my “Daily Burn” App because it’s the greatest!  It makes me think about what I’m eating, nibbling on etc.  If you want to lose weight, try it out, be disciplined and it will work.

CHARITY -

I had the luxury of cooking at some great charity events so far this year, man so many I cant list them all.  Some highlights have been Food Fight  and Meals On Wheels in Delaware.  Anytime I can cook with other chefs and we just “let our hair down” ok more like we try to control Steph’s hair is a good time.  Its always fun to just catch up with friends, we are all so busy its nice to see friends out and doing well.

ANNOUNCING –

al GRESHco feast -

Im back but with limited dates and I’ve given myself a little extra time to intensify the offerings.  Only 4 dates this year so make your resos now.

June 16, July 28, August 18 & September 22

JOVE T’s BIG DADDY CONE ICE CREAM SHOP -

I love ice cream, Jove (my pastry chef and fellow punk rocker) makes amazing ice cream.  We came up with this idea of just offering a Friday afternoon treat.  So its simple, we make 2 absolutely killer ice creams every week and serve them just outside jbar (mid block on rush between Ontario and Ohio street) between 3-5 pm.  Now if we run out we run out, get there early.  Not everything in life is unlimited, deal with it.

GREEN CITY BBQ -

July 21, yes I will be there!  Will you?

Talk with all of you soon, lots of fun still to come this summer!  All the best and happy cooking!

rg


Do You Judge A Man By The Color Of His Skin?

It’s amazing to see how people react to each other in life.  My parents always taught me the “dont judge a book by its cover” principle.  Sure I may use caution until I gather more information so I can make my decision, but I’m a pretty open minded guy.

I’ve always loved tattoos, as a kid I used to stare at my grandfathers ink on his forearms; an old school navy anchor and the other a classic heart with my grandmothers name in it.  Seeing that I knew I wanted to have tattoos everywhere, I would be on the life journey to complete my “suit”!

When I finally became old enough to get some ink my good friend Mr. Pooler was dead set against it.  He was a older than I and someone I resepected so I heard him out.  I agreed to wait until I was 30 to get my first tattoo if I still wanted one.  I kept my promise, let me tell you it was extremely difficult but looking back I’m so glad I did.  I know I would be covered in a bunch of random ink that just didn’t flow together.

When I turned 30 I still had this burning desire to have ink, so I did my homework and finally found Ahren Bloomquist at Lucky Seven Tattoo in Libertyville, Illinois.  You can check out his web site at www.ahrenbloomquisttattoo.com  I’ve always felt it was important to have a good relationship with your artist, after all they are designing something for life and you will be spending alot of time with this person during the process so you better get along.  We talk the entire time while he’s digging those needles into my skin about life, we like the same music, have similar dislikes but most importantly he loves the styles of ink that I do.  Nothing worse then having someone not into putting the ink on you!  When I discuss my next project ideas with Ahren his eyes light up and he’s always excited to get the piece going.  Oh yeah one last “positive trait” about him, he loves to laugh at me when he digs into those “tender spots”.  Every now and then I wish tables would turn but I know the same thing happened to him when he received his ink.  Its sort of a right of passage, we all go through it, those that haven’t just dont understand.

So my first tattoo was a marriage of a chef knife and one of my favorite style of flash, the americana pin up girl.  All in black and grey and lots of fun to get!

I was immediately contemplating my first sleeve and lets face it I have been working in “corporate America” for some time.  I’m clearly no “suit & tie”, but they have these control issues where everyone has to fit into a mold.  I remember I referred a friend of mine for a job a few years back who happens to have a sleeve and right after his interview they called me and asked “what I was thinking, he has tattoos all over his arm!!”  WTF, that is some sort of contagious life threating disease?  Dont touch the guy with ink, it will rub off on you!  He is such a talented chef and did not get the job because of that?  Oh well that restaurant is long gone out of business, serves you right!  My friend is quite the success and has kept adding art to his body.  Another example of me scratching my head was when I had a General Manager freak out on me because I wore a thumb ring.  I was asked “what will the guests think?’  Ahhh I don’t know he wears a ring on his thumb I thought to myself!  Seriously WTF, its just jewlery?

So the final story on throwing caution to the wind was when I was talking to my friend Emily, her words of wisdom opened up a whole new world for me.  I was explaining my concerns and the business world in which I worked, how its looked down on, you have to cover all your tattoo’s up and its just silly etc…  Her words of wisdom “do you really want to work somewhere that won’t accept you for your tattoo’s?  If they dont accept you for the way you look they certainly wont accept the way you think, what a horrible uncomfortable work environment!”  She was so right, maybe I’ve always been a bit to over the edge for the “suits”, but at least now they anticipate it when they look at me.  I’m so thankful that The James is a modern forward thinking company!

My second piece was my sleeve honoring my grandfather and grandmother.  We had it laid out on my arm and just before Ahren started he asked if I was sure.  I said yes, he asked again and added, “ya know people are going to treat you different”.  I said yes and moments later the outline began! I decided to have a mermaid sitting on the rocks, holding the rope to the anchor on the bottom of the sea floor.  True to life my grandmother always held everything together when grandpa was out at sea.  I filled it in with an old school clipper ship, a star fish, a treasure chest and some plants.

You know what?  Ahren was right!!  As soon as I got the sleeve I started to get poor treatment/service from servers at restaurants, employees at various stores.  Random people would stare, point and make comments.  I’m greeted with “hey tattoo, what can I get you?” at the bar.  Like really?  Ok so next time I great a table I should say “hey overweight balding guy, hows your steak?” or “Mrs. gaudy outfit and too much make up and choking perfume, are you enjoying your salad?”  Why would anyone think this is appropriate behavior?  I have this ink so I couldnt possibly understand proper service, trust me I’m the worst when it comes to judging service, generally I always expect it to be crap, that way when its good I’m surprised and happy.  I finally came to the understanding that if your this ignorant and closed minded I’m better off with out you.

Next up I decided to get another Americana pin up girl, this time a red head, sitting in front of a wine glass, symbols of bad luck like the ace of spades, snake eyes and a black kitten that is actually from my old skateboard by natas kapus.  Those of you who know me, know I love kittens!  Everyone asks why a red head, my response “aren’t they all bat shit crazy?”  haha!  kidding of course!

Recently we have been finishing my other sleeve which is a japanese piece (my other favorite type of tattoo work) featuring a big snake, lots of cherry blossoms, a japanese spider monkey and its web.  I completely hate snakes, always have, and the spider monkey is a fictous character.  It reminds me to keep what is real and important the focus no matter if I like it or not.  Dreaming is great, but I have to make my dreams reality.

Upcoming Projects – the tops of my feet will be the old sailors good luck charm but presented in a culinary way.  Sailors used to get a pig and a chicken on thier feet because it was said you could walk on water if the ship was sinking.  The crates the animals were packed into during transport used to float for a while if the ship went down, sailors would swim to the crates and hang on for life.

My chest will have a big skull bitting down on my heart, of course the skull is wearing a crown!  A classic old school tattoo with deep personal meaning to me.  The outline is in a couple of weeks, I cant wait!!!!!   Still alot of skin to cover, lots of real estate in constant developement!

So my mom asked me the other day if I’m going to keep getting tattoo’s, I had to explain the idea of a suit to her.  She wasn’t exactly happy, but then I said “mom, I’m still the same guy I was when I didnt have ink.  I still open doors for every woman, I still help people constanlty and try to be a good human being.  I haven’t changed, but the way most people look at me has.”  Her simple reply sums it up “that’s sad”.  :(


G’Day Mate, My First 3 Days in Sydney!

Greetings from Sydney Australia!  I’m currently on culinary trip with Chef Kristina Vanni of Terraces Winery,  Chef Anthony Jacquet of Whispers Lounge in os Angelas and Chandra Ram editor of Plate Magazine.  A few months ago Chandra & I judged an Australian lamb burger competiton and Kristina and Anthony won with  flying colors.

So day one I’m now 15 hours ahead of Chicago, I completely lost August 29, 2010 during the flight but it seems my flight back will be the longest day in my life!  Through customs I kept being asked if I had any “bitts”, WTF is a “bitt”?  I later found out that they were boots!  I was asked if I had been hiking lately, in my head I thought do I look like I hike?  I’m not exactly a nature boy, I love my garden and everything but I’m not one for sleeping under the stars with the creatures of the forest (including the cast from deliverance in you know what I mean)! 

After checking in at the hotel I spent my afternoon walking around the city center of Sydney, the Queen Victoria Building which is the oldest arcade in the city.  Its absoutley beautiful, I’ve also never have seen so many espresso cafes in my life!  Seriously coffee drinking is a new art form here, I thought the USA was extreme, we fail in comparison!

We finally met back up as a group and went down to the sydney harbor with the opera house and the bridge, had a few cocktails and off to Rockpool/Spice Temple for a tour and dinner.  The photos speak for themself, check out the glasses at the bar in Rockpool, thats some serious stems!  Chef Andy Evans gave us a guided tour of Australias Celebrity Chef Niel Perry operations, by the end of this year Niel will have close to 600 employees working in his various operations!  Chef Andy served us quite a meal, making sure we begged uncle for food to stop arriving at the table!

The next morning we went to  the fish market, WOW!  What an amazing operation, the fish was absoutley pristine and so many varities of fish that I’ve never seen before.  For the first time in a long time I felt like I was just a young cook who knew nothing, I took so many photos and listening to our tour guide of the market describe the various fish in length.  To many photos to post here, but if your a friend of mine on facebook I have posted multiple photo albums.  Breakfast that morning consisted of a dozen local oysters that have only been out of the water a few hours and a flat white coffee (think espresso and warm milk, little foam).

Next we headed over to Victor Churchill, Australia’s premier butcher.  This was something I was really interested in because they have been dry aging beef and lamb in a room lined with himilayan pink salt (sounds like primehouse to me).  They have really made meat appear like the gem it is, think high end jewelry store.  Marble floor, exotic wood, fantastic displays of raw, aged meats, terrines, pates, the open butcher shop, the dry age room, a small kitchen where they prep everything.  They only use hand cranked slicers, the prosciutto had the best sugar crystal crunch becaus ethe meat was cut at such a slow rpm.  The highlight was being able to sign the wall of visiting chefs in the back, it was an honor to have my name up there with the others.

Off to lunch at the Pony Club with 40 of Sydneys great chefs, the entire meal was very farm to plate with great conversation from all of the chefs.  Chandra had to give a speach on the american dining scene (haha), I just had to eat, drink and be social!  I especially like talking with Erik Tan of the Chophouse, it was interesting to here his take on meat in sydney of course after learning what they call beef and lamb cuts here!

After our lunch we walked around, found a local honey shop and tasted about 8 or 9 different honeys, I fell in love with the leatherwood honey and had to bring some home to the states.  Then the journey of walking over the Sydney Harbor Bridge, what an amazing view!  The city is so beautiful, the people are very proud of their city here, as they should be.  Time for a beer after that walk!! 

Wait day two isn’t over yet, we ran back to the hotel and I changed in record time into my suit and off to dinner at Becasse.  Chef Justin North talked us through his operation and upcoming ventures as well as the dining scene in Sydney through his eyes.  His food was fantastic, after 7 courses it was almost time to call it a night.  One last beer down at the local pub and off to bed I went.

Day three began with  a tour of Star City, Sydneys only casino.  Chef Andy North toured the entire facility with the many outlets including a buffet, noodle house, employee cafe, banquets, pastry shop, and about 5 other outlets.  Such a large operation, but everything was running smooth and in order no matter where you looked.  Lunch was a tasting of lamb tartare and then sous vide lamb rack. 

Next up a cruise on the harbor to take a look at Syndey from a different angle.  I supposedly saw where Russel Crow lives, nice place but that part of the harbor just smelled like BP had another oil disaster.  We went to an area know as the Gap, not the clothing store!  After Quite a climb of steps and rocks my eyes were amazed by this set of cliffs that overlook the ocean and the favorite spot for aussie’s to off themselves.  Hey I guess if your gonna go out, go out looking at something beautiful!

After we headed back to Summit restaurant for tapas with Chef Brett Luckens.  I have to admit Brett was pretty damn funny and I look forward to catching up for a drink with him when I have some free time on this trip.  He spoke alot to us about the foods he uses and why he chooses these products.  We spoke alot about cooking technique and the regional differences in Australia versus the USA.

Being the last night in Sydney we had top have some traditional meat pies, off to harrys meat pie cart on the warf that smells like petrol!  I had a curry lamb meat pie with mashed potatoes and mushy peas & an orange cola.  It was pretty tasty but I dont think it’s going to replace the tamale man in Chicago!  We then headed to the bad part of town just for me!  I was asking where the punks hang out because I sort of feel like and outcast here.  I havent seen any guys with tattoos and the ink I have seen has been on girls, mostly the top of their feet.  It dosent seem as common as it it is the states.  I was told we have to go to Kings Crossing, I previously did some research on the web and the posts made it out to be a horrible place.  Sure as we drove in the strip clubs with dancers on their smoke breaks out front, some tattoo shops and bars but nothing that made me flinch.  We went into a bar, had a gin gimlet and some more laughs.  The Crew of the Meat & Livestock Australia have been nothing short of amazing!  Unfortunately it was time to end this part of the trip, headed back home to pack and off to Adeliade, Coonawara & the Barossa Valley tomorrow.


al GRESHco feast 7-29-10

Last night I hosted another al GRESHco feast, my bi-weekly farm to table dinner.  Always allot of fun to get in the kitchen and cook, last night was a bit sad however because this is the last time Holly Willoughby and I will cook one of these together because she is opening her own restaurant next month.  Holly has always been my partner on al GRESHco and everything Green City Market, I will truly miss her.  I wish you the best of luck Holly, everyone go check out her new resto in Lincoln Park called Aquataine which is located at 2221 North Lincoln Ave.

Heirloom tomatoes are tossed with fresh herbs, olive oil and a splash of sherry vinegar.  The broth around the plate is yellow tomato water.  Topped with a seared scallop and some mini arugula. 

Heirloom Tomato & Scallop

As soon as I laid eyes on these plums from Seedlings Farm I turned to holly and said we are cooking foie gras tonight!  The base is a thick cut petite brioche loaf prepared in a vanilla accented french toast style.  We smeared the top with the sweet “magic” plums that were caramelized, cooked down with orange juice and finished with the rendered foie fat!  YUMMM!  Topped off with seared foie gras, a drizzle of the sweet plum liquid and then the sour yellow plums were sautéed with thyme and finished off the plate.

Foie Gras with Sweet & Sour Plums

The “Corn”ed Chicken dish is a boned out chicken where I use the entire chicken skin to wrap it back up into shape.  The breasts are left whole while I make forcemeat with the legs and garnished with lots of black pepper and shrimp.  The entire chicken was then cooked in corn juice for 2 hours.  It was then sliced and served over pea tendrils, vadiallia onions, a truffle corn sauce and a few Chioggia beets.

"Corn"ed Chicken

Grilled Lamb Loin served over beautiful haricot vert and a sauce made from cooking heirloom tomatoes with fresh garlic and a touch of veal demi glaze.  The eggplant torta begins with grilled eggplant that is then chopped and sautéed with shallots, garlic and fresh herbs.  I folded in a few chopped hard boiled eggs and topped it with buttered breadcrumbs accented with red chili flakes.

Lamb Loin & Eggplant Torta


I Have Too Many Zucchini!!!

  

Zucchini Grande!

As most things in life when it rains it pours!  I recently was extremely busy with work and neglected my garden for a few days; yeah I know “bad gardener”.  I have since made up for it and my crops love me again!  I was stuck with the age old dilemma what to do with this zucchini especially the really large ones that generally are tough and fibrous when cooked.  I already had a great flank steak marinating for 2 days in the fridge begging to be grilled, so I pulled out my Vita-Prep Blender (best blender out there, it will grind up anything!) and pureed both the skin and the flesh separately.  I let the flesh drain through a chinois (fancy chef term for a fine mesh sieve) and kept the skin separate and cold to add a great color to the risotto.  Many times we cook vegetables in their own juices to intensify the flavor, same goes with pasta or risotto in this case.  I used entirely zucchini juice  for the liquid, finished with just before serving with the skin puree and of course a little bit of diced zucchini, topped with the grilled flank steak and marinated cherry tomatoes and onions from the garden in extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar.  Now thank god thats one less loaf of zucchini bread out there! 

  

  

Peeled, Chopped Zucchini

Zucchini Skin

Zucchini Flesh Juiced

Zucchini Skin Puree

Risotto with Onions

 

Zucchini Risotto

 

Grilled Flank Steak, Zucchini Risotto & Marinated Tomatoes

 

 

 


al GRESHco Feast 6-30-2010

This week I unveiled LORD STANLEY, when the Chicago Blackhawks made it to the playoffs we started an all natural starter made from flour, water and organic grapes.  This fermented until the Blackhawks beat Philadelphia and brought the cup home.  In every kitchen Ive worked in we have always named our starter, its a living thing that needs love and attention, daily feedings and overall some excercise too.  There was only one name that fit, at last Lord Stanley was named.  Enjoy the photos, I appoligize I didnt take a photo of the smoked beef dish, I was too busy nibbling on the trimmings!


Walking the Lawn at the White House

 

In June I had the honor of being one of the 700 chefs who were addressed by Mrs. Obama for the Chefs Move To School iniative.  It was a great treat to walk on the south lawn of the White House and the vegetable garden.  Im excited to help my school incorporate healthy food education in ways never really done before.  For example instead of teaching children in math class fractions on a pieces of paper, have them adjust recipes and measure out dried beans using measuring cups.  Get the children involved in understanding where food comes from in history class instead of just the “Columbus sailed the ocean blue….”, how the plentiful supply of food or lack their of shaped countries accross the world.  If you want to learn more about this iniative please check out – http://www.letsmove.gov/index.html


Oh How I love PORK!

I had another offsight charity event, decided to make a prochetta.  George from Swan Creek Farm brought me one of his fantastic pigs.  I took the skin off first leacing it attached to the head, made a fennel forcemeat garnished with toasted pinenuts and started building it by laying a layer of housemade hot coppa.  Next came the forcemeat and then the loins.  I rolled it up and tied  it off.  the next morning we roasted it in our la caja china roasting box, served it with ramp pesto.  You can tell by the pics I love to have fun in the kitchen! 

This was after the event! All guests were served!


al GRESHco Feast 5-12-10

The first al Greshco Feast Menu, the walleye from www.Sea2Table.com was amazing!  Holly and I had alot of fun this day cooking.  Enjoy the Photos!


When Fashion & Food Meet!

I was asked to participate in a fun event for the Les Dames Escoffier In May, 2010.  The idea of this event was to show artistic insipration using multiple formats, food and fashion.  I was paired up with Michelle Tan, a designer with a shop in bucktown on Damen Ave.  We picked words out of a hat, one was food and one was fashion, our words were ginger and geometric.  Michelle and I had the worst schedules, when I was in town she was out of town and vice versa.  Finally I went by her store and saw the outfit, it was amazing!  As soon as I looked at all the plaid design with the crinkle cut edge (I know theres a fashion term but I’m a chef its crinkle cut!  Its my blog!) I knew exactly what I was making.  Alobster and ginger filled ravioli using squid ink to mimic the colors and crinkle edge tecture.  She a frilly head piece our model was going to wear so I made a petite herb salad with crispy rings of shallots and shoestring potatoes.  Underneath the ravioli I placed a celery root slaw and drizzled the plate with a bit of chili oil.  The night we walked out on stage was pretty funny, both of us barely worked face to face on this project but we both sported our black hats and found out what true rockers each of us really are!  Thanks Michelle, I had a blast.  Go Check out her sight and visit the boutique  http://michelletan.com/


Whiskey Planked Rabbit Ribeyes

I love Whiskey, its one of my favorite things in life.  I was very fortunate when my friend Michael from Templeton Rye gave me some used whiskey barrel pieces from his operation in Iowa.  Templeton Rye is one of my favorites!  I love it neat with a water back, mmmm I might need to have one right now.  In early may Stephanie Izard, Guiseppe Tentori and I came together for another dinner this time featuring rabbits.  Its always fun to cook with other chefs, especially in a neutral kitchen, that way no chef is the host, they don’t have to worry about making sure we have everything etc. We just cook and have fun catching up on what is going on in the industry, farmers and each other.  I knew I wanted to use the ribs for something but what?  I looked at my sous chef Dino and said “should we french them like we used to at the Dolphin?”  in translation that meant “Dino start frenching these 30 rabbit racks”.  I saw his face and heart just sink, this was a task he mastered 10 years ago when we worked together at Green Dolpohin Street, after about 40 seconds of making him sweat I told him I was kidding.  To understand frenching a rabbit rack, you must take all the meat and sinue off the small delicate bones so that the bones are completely clean and the eye of the loin is the only part left attached, in other words its the biggest pain in the A$$!  Then again anything food related that is “frenched” pretty much is a time consuming process, I think sometimes that it really translates into “Pain in the A$$” hehe.

To make heat the barrel pieces for 30 minutes in a 450 degree oven, toss the rabbit chops in salt, pepper and vegetable oil.  Place the chops on the hot barrel pieces and return to the oven for approximately 10 minutes.  Remove from oven and toss in whiskey bbq sauce.  Serve on more planks that are only warm, you dont want your guests burning their fingers.  The fun part of this dish is that the whiskey flavor roasts into the rabbit meat, think of this as a new version of cedar planked salmon.


Going Green, But I’ve Always Been Green!

Those of you who know me can prove that I’ve been wearing green shoes for 20 years now, not the hemp save the earth don’t harm the animals type of green! Something about my green shoes makes me happy, my old green 3 eylet gibson green doc martens have been retired to my woodshop, they are now covered in glue and dust, the back heel is torn, I can’t get rid of them, they are a part of me.  I was so depressed when my good pair started to go and I wanted to purchase new ones but doc martens discontinued making them, SHAME ON YOU!  I searched high and low all over the world, I would have shipped them from anywhere to have my green docs!  I had to move up to the 9 eylet boot in green, for a guy who basically works in pajamas and slippers all day putting on a boot just sucks!  I fought the urge to buy a higher type clog, I used to wear them in the kitchen and as we all know who wear them the “clog blowout” where you twist your ankle on a kitchen mat or something is just painfull!  I broke down and bought a pair of black clogs, yeah they were comfy, I wasn’t twisting my ankle, but they were black, BORING!!!  I was determined to find a green shoe, this could not be the end of an era for me.  Finally I found a company who made them for me in Sweden!  I love you Sweden!  Actually the gentleman lives in North Carolina that arranged all of this, thanks to Jans Fagerberg I have my green clogs.  Here is his websight – now one of my favorites for sure!  http://www.janswedeclogs.com/


Himalayan Salt Plancha

Its no secret we use and cook with a TON of himalayan pink salt at primehouse.  I used to do an amuse of a small salt block that was made very hot by placing it in the oven for 2 hours and then into a high flame on the stove for about 7 minutes.  We placed a piece of kobe sirloin onto this hot salt and sent it out to the dining room with a little stripe of kobayaki sauce.  The guest would flip the meat and then dip it into the sauce, the modern hot rock was born.

Every kitchen has that one piece of equipment that no matter what it just doesnt seem to work right!  No matter how many people try to fix it it just is useless unless you get pretty creative.  We have a gas grill that is exactly that, in order to use it we need to cover it with sheet pans to retain the heat, then put the item we want on it and once finished cooking replace the sheet pan.  Isn’t cooking in a pro kitchen challenging enough that now I’ve created an obsticle course to making a dish?  Dont worry everyone our steaks get cooked in 1 of our 3 broilers, this grill became pan storage.  As a chef how aggrevating is that?  Staring at you every night in the center of the line, taunting you, that useless expensive piece of equipment!  UGGHHHH!

Recently I met a great guy in the salt business, I looked at some samples and loved the products they offered!  I received a huge shipment of Himalayan salt, so many different sizes of salt and great pricing!  Presto the salt plancha was born!  I took 6 pcs of 7″wide by 14″long, 1 inch thick tiles and set them on the grill grates covering the surface of the grill.  Remember I have to cover it with something to get it to stay hot, why not the thick salt/stone which retains heat?  It is a fun sight to see my crew both front and back of house look at me like “what the hell is this crazy (insert word) doing now?”  We had fun trying out different items on the plancha last night.  Maybe now we can finally use this tool for something on the menu or at least some specials instead of pan storage!  What’s the old saying, make lemons out of lemonade?


Togarashi Spiced Hiramasa

Another recent addition to the dinner menu at David Burkes Primehouse, Togarashi spiced hiramasa with chipotle creamed corn, sweet and sour peppers, cilantro pesto.

Togarashi is made from dried orange zest, black & white toasted sesame seeds, cayenne, ginger, Szechuan pepper & nori. 

Hiramasa is Yellowtail Kingfish found in the pristine waters of Australia.  The basic formula is that the farm spans the fish, allows them to grow  and then releases them to the ocean where they live a normal life until net caught at a certain size and then brought back into the farm to finish feed to appropriate size.  This sort of farming can be found in the video documentary Tuna Cowboys or to find out more go to: http://www.australianhiramasa.com/


Spring Kitchen Photos

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is only part of the 50 pounds of pickled ramps we started the about 2 weeks ago.  We are pickling and krauting ramps every week so we have plenty to last us for a while.  So delicious, I wish I could eat these every day!

The new smoked octopus on the spring menu at primehouse – Cold smoked octopus which is then sous vide in extra virgin olive oil and herbs.  We peel it and then it’s griddled, tossed with spring radishes, pickled ramps, frisee, extra virgin olive oil, drizzled with chili oil and place over a garbanzo bean puree.

Razor Clams – Thanks Carl!!!!  Razor clams al la plancha with verjus, fennel, tomato confit.  Another thing I could eat every day!!


Hands Back In The Dirt!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have been terribly busy the past two months, between work and all the pr events, menu changes and trying to stay on top of spring housework I have had very little time or energy to blog.  I did however take pictures!  Above is my garden as I left it last year, pretty straight forward its a plot of dirt.  I battled with all the weeds, some wet areas, some dry spots and re designed the garden this year.  I have been working the soil for 5 years now, lots of compost, lime to break up the clay, peat moss to lightnen the soil in certain areas etc. 

  This is after I did the work, 4 raised beds, 3 rows and an irrigation system for each section of the the garden.  I installed a weed block fabric and mulch, easily enough to move away to tend to each row in the fall/spring when turning in compost etc.

 2 of the beds are for strawberries, currently since I transplanted into the new beds i have froast blankets on them and I installed the bird netting over the new row hoops so I can actually enjoy some berries this year!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is my root crop bed, currently also under frost blanket, completely planted and doing amazing!  I have garlic, green onions, red onions, vidallia onions, red radish, french breakfast radish, a mixed bag of carrots, red, yello and chiogga beets.  Im excited because in the fall I will top this box with a cold frame and keep my garden going! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My new pride and joy, the irrigation system!  Every row, or box has its own control.  Perfect watering only to the plants that need it. 

My vegetable seedlings growing outside on a warm day, soon they will be in the ground!


A Rare Vintage Affair

 On March 10, 2010 my good friend Rodrick Markus & I have teamed up to create an exciting event.  This is the first time I’ve ever offered a complete tasting of the David Burkes Primehouse Dry Aged Steaks ranging from 28 days up to 75 days.  If you dont know Rod, you deffinately need to come meet him because he is the guru of all things tea, his collection of rare teas is the best in the country!  Cave aged pu-erh teas are absoutly amazing, there are so many great teas to enjoy and currently we are putting the fininshing touches on the tea cocktails and wines for the evening.  The menu is listed below, it is all inclusive for 79 dollars, please call 312-660-6000 to make your reservation, remember space is limited.  http://chicago.metromix.com/restaurants/article/tea-it-up/1796655/content

A Rare Vintage Affair

Wagyu Nibbles

Tartar With Freeze Dried Grape Caponatta

Emperors Lotus Blossom Leaves Crusted Braised Shortrib

Ninja Sausage Dumplings with Pineapple Shoyu

 

Dinner

Wet Aged Ribeye Versus 28 Day Dry Aged Ribeye

 stewed green lentils with wild osmanthus petal & almond chutney

Emperor’s 2008 Oak Barrel Aged Keemun
 

40 Day Sirloin

emperor’s houjicha pickled carrots & buckwheat custard

2001 Vintage Pu-erh Wild Rose
 

Slow Roasted 55 Day Dry Aged Prime Rib In Fresh Green Kukicha

smoked potato dumplings, swiss chard crema

1978 Vintage Cave Aged Pu-erh

     

75 Day Ribeye

spicy crab with sicilian blood orange pu-erh sauce maltaise

1983 Vintage Private Reserve Masterpiece Pu-erh

 

Fields Of France Rooibos Biscuit

soft fleur de sel caramel, roasted mexican vanilla ice cream, brown butter sautéed mango,

wild osmanthus hedonistic orange blossom

Emperor’s Late Night Elixir

    

Executive Chef: Rick Gresh

Executive Pastry Chef: Jove T. Hubbard

Master Of Tea: Rodrick J. Markus

Sommelier: Rachael Johnson Hussar


WGN Cooking Demo

 Today I cooked a great winter dish on WGN news, its really simple and somthing I’ve been making for years.  When I was at Green Dolphin Street we could hardly keep up with production.  I’ve adapted the recipe a bit so its easy to make at home, you can always substitiute a beef roast or lamb leg if you dont eat pork.  Enjoy!

 http://www.wgntv.com/videobeta/?watchId=ddadfc1a-bf8e-4711-85c3-3b265e673c15

Slow Roasted Pork Shoulder with “Mole Broth” & Tortilla Flan

 5 #                  Bone in pork shoulder

1 ea                onion, chopped

4 ea                garlic cloves

2 ea                ancho peppers, soaked for 30 min in warm water, stemmed and seeded

1 tbsp            black peppercorns

½ ea               vanilla bean, split and scraped

4 sprigs          thyme

4 sprigs          marjoram

1 ea                carrot, chopped

1 ea                Celery stalk, chopped

3 qts               Chicken Stock

¼ bunch       cilantro, chopped

½ cup            almonds

To taste        salt and pepper

Method:

  1. In a blender combine onion, garlic,  drained ancho peppers, black peppercorns, carrot, celery and blend together using the stock to help blend this smooth.
  2. Season pork with salt and pepper, in a hot pan over high heat sear the meat until deep golden brown.  Remove and turn flame down to medium heat.
  3. Add blended liquid and remaining stock, vanilla bean to the searing pan, bring to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer for 30 minutes.  Add herbs and seared pork, cover and place in a 325°F oven for 3 hours.
  4. Add the almonds and cilantro and return to the oven for approx 1 more hour.  Pork should be tender.  Remove from pan, reduce sauce if necessary, adjust seasoning, strain and serve over the pork.

Tortilla Flan

1 bag             corn tortilla chips, plain

3 ea                poblano peppers, charred over an open flame

10 oz              tomatillos

2 ea                garlic cloves

1 bunch        cilantro

4 ea                eggs

1 qt                heavy cream

2 cups            mild cheddar cheese shredded

To taste        salt and pepper

As needed   vegetable spray

Method:

  1. In a blender puree peppers, tomatillos, garlic cloves, cilantro, eggs and cream until smooth.  Season. 
  2. Pour over chips and mix together well. 
  3. In an oven proof pan, spray with vegetable spray.  Add layers of chips and cheese until pan is full.  This mixture should be wet, pour over additional cream mixture to ensure.  Set aside covered for 40 minutes at room temperature.
  4. After 40 minutes check to see if the mixture is too dry, add additional cream mixture as necessary.  Cover and bake in a 325°F for approx 30 minutes until set.

Brunch In A Box

I just launched my Brunch in a Box concept at David Burkes Primehouse, the follow up to American Dim Sum Brunch.  Every week I offer a menu of collections in a bento box, for example the hangover box which contains mini burgers with french fries, mac n cheese with crispy bacon and a monte cristo made with house cured proscuitto & rockstar sunglasses!    Yep the perfect cure for the hangover, some weeks I think I should just call this breakfast haha!  I love to try many different things in a meal so this a fun way to taste the menu and enjoy multiple flavors.  If you are truly a dare devil, try the mystery box, this is where we really get to have fun as chefs!  Don’t let the steakhouse fool you, we are always cooking something cool in the kitchen!  Here is a copy of the Brunch in a Box menu. 

Brunch Boxes

Griddled                                                 15

Cinnamon raisin french toast…maple syrup

Buttermilk pancakes…blueberries

Crepe…stewed fruit

Breakfast Sausage

 

Eggs                                                        17

Benedict…spicy ham, hollandaise

Lobster Scrambled…crème fraiche, caviar

Peppers & Eggs… kobe paprika sausage, brioche

Bacon Biscuit

 

Little Bull                                                21                                                       

207L Beef Tips…arugula, blue cheese, tomato vinaigrette

Grilled Steak…mushrooms, onions & whipped potato

Shortrib Dumplings…horseradish, cheddar cheese, bbq sauce

Tempura Green Beans

 

Big Bull                                                   42

Petite Filet…garlic spinach

Petite Kansas City Sirloin… asparagus

Delmonico…basil whipped potatoes

Petite Mixed Green

 

Hangover                                                16

Mini Burkers….spicy mayo, french fries

Mac N’ Cheese…chopped bacon

Monte Cristo…proscuitto, gruyere, tomato tapanade

 

Shells                                                      21

Pretzel Crusted Crabcake…poppy seed honey

Angry Shrimp…basil, lemon, chili

Scallops…lobster fried rice, miso glaze

Oysters

 

Mystery Box                                          priced daily

let go & let Chef Rick treat you to a culinary surprise


Pop Up Vegan Tasting

The email came through that guests of theJames hotel needed a vegan tasting menu, excellent!  Its not often we get requests for vegan cuisine afterall we are Chicago’s premier steakhouse!  This day took me back in time when I was just a line cook working at Trio in Evanston for Chef Shawn McClain, I was on entremetier (veg station).  We had tons of food requests, special diets and overall a passion and audiance to create great cuisine highlighting vegetables.

 I started out with some simple nibbles in the lounge, grilled eggplant arancinis that we placed on a bed of crushed nicoise olives with roasted garlic and fresh oregano.  Three sisters farm grit cakes topped with smoked mushrooms and sweet and sour peppers.  The last nibble was truffle root vegetable crostinis.  Look at that knife work, my Sous Chef Nolan clearly passed skills class!

We had to play with our new kitchen toy, seeing the look on my Sous Chef Dino’s face when he plays with the cryovac machine is priceless, he’s happy Dino!  We made compressed watermelon carpaccio topped with marinated kumatos, watermelon radish, slivered onion rings, cucumbers, fried capers, fried ginger and mint.

We had some beautiful local baby carrots, I cooked each seperately golden with garlic, orange with ginger and purple with chilies.  They were cut into small rounds and tossed with dried baguette and the remaing cooking liquids and parsley to make a panzanella.  This was wrapped in basic eggless pasta dough and baked.  Garnished with olive oil poached fennel and a pesto of arugula and hazelnuts.

At this point in the evening the rest of the guests at the table were eating steaks and drinking bigger red wines, so I took a simple and beautiful approach to match. Grilled king trumpet mushrooms, asparagus and watercress emulsion, corn shoots and (below) caramalized caulifower and olive oil crushed yukon gold potato gratin with fresh thyme.

Dessert, I didnt get to take a picture but it looked and tasted amazing.  John a.k.a. PC1 and Amanda made a heirloom apple crisp with organic oat struesal and orange sorbet.  A fun day of cooking during a classic Chicago winter blizzard!